PLACE
This game is useful in lots of circumstances for instance when someone is at the door or meal times.
As with all our games its a nice simple idea and is all about making the rules fun and in turn something the dog actually makes a conscious decision of wanting to do what you ask.
I recommend a tug toy for this game, first you will need to decide what youn want to teach the dog as an initial place. I recommend starting with a blanket asn it makes for easy progression into a bed or crate by placing the blankeyt there and also sets you up nicely for the majic carpet game in the next section.
Place your blankey on the floor, engage the dog in play with chosen toy, then lure the dog onto the blanket and say “place” (or your chosen command), and again as we always do the moment ihis or her foot touches the blanket you will need to go crazy with praise and play. Repeat this a few times, around 8-10 depending how quickly your dog learns.
The next time is to reduce your luring motion, again progress this slowly whilst your dog is still piecing together exactly what was the moment they achieved what you are asking, as you reduce lure start working towards a motion where you are simply pointing they toy at the bed and giving the command. Once your dog is managing this hold the toy in the other hand and point your now free hand to the bed and give command, if the dog doesnt get it then revert back to pointing the toy and try again next time, this may take a few times. On the occasion your dog successfully progresses each step add extra praise to really motivate them.
After you are having a good sucess rate with pointing its time to prolong the time you want the dog to remain sitting/standing/ laying on their place. To achieve this its a simple case of withholding the reward and release command, release command is usually something like ‘thats it “ or “good boy” again do this very slowly whilst your dog figures out that he or she is now needing to wait, if you see your dog is definitely going to move quickly give release and reward before the dog has disobedyed, it is important that you do this at the very starting point of dog moving not after they have moved already. Again this is not yet the time for punishment your dog is not choosing to do wrong but just figuring out whats needed, once youve done this for a few months you can add a shaort sharp “ahah” or ‘no’ when your dog moves as by this stage they are able to decipher the incorrect behaviour, if you have corrected wrong behaviour the reward after should be amplified.
Now you can start progressions into new ‘places’ as mentioned a good start would be the crate or bed with blanket om it or moving blanket outside, the end goal is the dog will go where you are pointing no matter where that is it could be a bed, a spot on the floor, the sofa, the crate, the car even up on a table or bench
MAGIC CARPET
This is a progression the “place” its very important you have a strong “place” before you move on to this stage otherwise you will simply confuse the dog and loose all progress so far
I keep saying it but here we are again changing things and asking something new of the dog so do not punish mistakes, punishment or corrections should only be given when a dog knows they are choosing the wrong behaviour and never for confusion, that is vitalvto your training bond and effectiveness.
Use a blanket or lighweight bed on a hard floor, and as reward here i would use either squeezy cheese, pate on a spoon, raw feeders or something similar where the dog has to lick at the rewar (these arent healthy treats they are just treats so dont over use them)
Have your dog go to his or her place, offer your dog the. reward and gentley move the blanket or bed they are sat on as they take the treat, if they do not move then give them lots of fuss and let them contiue to take reward a little longer. It is important that the way you move the blanket at first is very slow and not in any sudden or jerking motion, keep the distance very small the first few tie where by the distance is barely noticable but your dog is just becoming accustomed to the feeling of movement. If the dog jumps off then simpley withhold the treat and give no priase then try again, if your dog flinches with you just touching the blanket to start you can work on just touching without movement and build back up to a small movement.
When your dog is comfortable with a small slow movemnt you first build up the distance, a little bit at a time, then progress to faster movement. Eventually you should reach a point whereby your dogs stays there while you almost run pulling them around and can even add in twists and turns. Keep all progressions to your dogs pace do not rush them it only adds stress for you both
OUCH
This game aims to help with bite inhibitions.
A very simple game, simply play with your dog in a manner that would normally insue in plat biting. As soon as the bite happens the first time give a short sharp and loud ‘ ouch’ stand up and give the dog a toy, when the dog takes toy lots of praise and then continue to play. If the bite happens a secong time do the same but this time give the toy and leave the room. Simply repeat this short exercise a few times a day and soon your dog will learn that a bite leads to the games ending.
DELAYED FETCH
This is a game your ndog will learn to love and really works a huge level of implus control which is vital in a well balanced dog
Start simple, have a ball in your hand, have your dog in a sit position. Use your empty hand with open palm in front of the dogs face and reinforce your sit command whilst at the same time taking the hand with the ball and dropping the ball to the ground (start with just a low small drop) keep the dog sat just a few seconds and then move the “blocking” hand and tell your dog fetch as always with lots and lots of praise
Keep practising this until the dog doesnt even flinch before you release, then increase the height of drop and the time to wait before releasing the dog.
Once your dog has gotten the drop really solid and is happy to wait its time to start throwing, use a lead to begin with. Repeat the same exercise as before but rather than dropping the ball throw it a short distance (i do a false throw first to watch if the dog will flinch, is s/he does then simply give another firm sit command and try another false throw until no movement then make the real throw) first few times have your foot on the dogs lead to stop him/her bolting after.
Take each stage slolwy and try to watch your dogs back legs closley you will see the preparation to bolt there and can catch it early and correct simply by giving another firm sit command and using the blocking hand action in front of the dogs face.
A flase throw is where you do the movement of throwing without letting go (like you do when you trick your dog into thinking the ball has been thrown) eventually your dog will sit whilst you throw a long distance and wait easily for you to tell him/her to go